On 3/4/20 5:19 PM, Tim via users wrote:
> On Wed, 2020-03-04 at 12:30 +0700, Frederic Muller wrote:
>> it's a PIXLINK LV-WR09 300Mbps Wireless-N Repeater/Router/AP
> Looking at this:
> http://pmod1b8a3.pic8.websiteonline.cn/upload/WR09QuickInstallationGuide.pdf
>
> It looks like it should support the mode you want. Try using it as an
> access point. Can you follow their guide? Get back to us with how far
> you can manage to get.
>
Oh yes it supports the mod that I want, except that I am failing to
connect to the printer probably because of IP routing issues. I was in
fact expecting the LAN port to connect to the same subnet as if it was a
Wifi connection to the repeater. Apparently it doesn't work this way.
I assume you are using WISP mode. The above document is short on
detail, but mentions "routing", so may offer a bridge configuration that
actually works. It sounds like the lan port is getting NATed addresses.
It isn't clear if you know the IP assigned to the printer. Your printer should
be able to generate a status page that shows the IP assigned by the router.
Some models with displays can show the IP.
To use WISP mode you may need to configure the router to allow specific
ports from wifi to connect to the LAN side. Unless there are more options than
the "Quick" guide provides, you can't connect to the printer.
AP mode cannot work as I would need to lay a cable between my router and
the AP: then I'm better off setting up the cable directly to the
printer... which I cannot do.
Have you considered powerline ethernet? That can work well, but depends
on the way the building was wired.
So my question is how can I connect from 192.168.0.x subnet to
192.168.1.x subnet (or specific printer IP) knowing this connection
doesn't go through my router/firewall (which is on 192.168.0.1).
The repeater IP is currently dynamic (I can probably set it as fixed)
and falls randomly between 100 to 190, which would be the gateway to
access the printer. And that's where my routing knowledge tells me there
is a problem.
You want a bridge, not a router. The problem is that you can't rely on the
technical information from online shopping sites, and two low-end devices
with the same model number are often different internally. There are simple
devices that do what you want, but some have a poor antenna, so many
don't have proper UL certification (in case fire, insurance has an excuse to
avoid paying). The most robust route is to build your own from a single-board
computer (SBC) with wifi and an ethernet port. There are excellent online groups
that can help with linux or BSD-based router/bridge configurations for SBC
hardware.